It was a hot summer day of 15th June ’17 when we boarded the a/c Volvo bus from ISBT Kashmere gate, Delhi. The level of excitement cannot be expressed as both of us had high hopes because we were coming back to life. We were heading to much awaited PANGI VALLEY, one of the remotest region of Himachal Pradesh. Our bus moved out at 8:30 pm as we headed for CHAMBA via DALHOUSIE.
We reached CHAMBA, a busy and crowded place, at 11 am. Had breakfast/lunch and hired a private taxi(NOTE: Only 4x4 vehicles are recommended). It takes 3 to 4 hours to reach BAIRAGARH( 9100 feet) but it took us longer as our vehicle underwent all the necessary checks in between. Finally we reached BAIRAGARH and checked in Chamunda Hotel( 1500/- for room excluding food and pre booking is recommended as there are only two hotels in here).
NOTE: The HRTC local buses and private shared taxis play on Chamba to Killar route.
A long and a very important day of our journey as we had to cross SACH PASS(14500 feet) to reach KILLAR(Pangi Valley). We started at 7:30 am to avoid rush at pass moreover the melting snow would have created havoc. There is a Police Checkpost at Satrundi where we have to show any one proof of our nationality(Passport/Aadhar card/Voters ID). Few kilometers further and we entered a place called Kalaban from where the lofty snow capped mountains were clearly visible. This place is truly a camping paradise with couple of waterfalls, rivers, lush green meadows around.
Last Dhaba of Sharma Ji is here before hitting Sach Pass. Finally we left the greenery behind and entered moraine as we gained the altitude. Our vehicle moved slowly on the zig zag road and later it seemed we entered a snow kingdom with broken roads and walls of snow around us. We reached the highest point of pass where there is a Hindu temple where our driver and locals offered prayers.
It took us another 45 minutes to descend the pass and we were welcome by another scenic and beautiful place called Bagotu. There is a local dhaba out here where we enjoyed breakfast and tea. Locals from Pangi run this dhaba and are often praised by travelers for their commendable services.
As we proceeded further the road became treacherous, narrower and dangerous. A beautiful waterfall called JYOTBALA mesmerized us with its beauty as our vehicle passed just beside it.
Finally we reached the main headquarter of Pangi valley called KILLAR and checked into Raj Hotel.
NOTE: Sach pass connects Chamba valley from Pangi valley.
Get the bookings done for FRH/IPH from Chamba itself.
Get the bookings done for FRH/IPH from Chamba itself.
Only BSNL works in Pangi Valley and we tried our level best to get a BSNL sim but we couldn’t due to security reasons.
Exploration day… we boarded a bus from a nearby bus stand and reached in two hours to a place called SURAL BHATORI( Bhatori means high altitude village). We were speechless with just the first glimpse of the village. The massive and wide range of snow clad mountains followed by a waterfall caught our attention. This village is surrounded by 5000 to 6000 meters white giants.
There are two guest houses here i.e Forest Rest House(FRH) and (IPH), we went for the latter one. The room was pretty big for two of us with clean double bed, attached toilet with geyser. Mr.Baburam takes care of this place and lives few meters away. There are no shops in Sural so we did all the necessary shopping from Killar. Mr. Baburam was kind enough to get vegetables and other items as we paid him for the same.
Trekking day….we headed deeper into the valley where we crossed the last village, pasturelands, waterfalls, streams and finally reached a paradise called TYASO. An open grassland surrounded by snow mountains and the river passing by. Unfortunately it started drizzling within 15 minutes of our arrival & we had to leave the spot. Got drenched on our way back but hot tea and food saved us at IPH.
Boarded an afternoon bus back to Killar and hired a private taxi after doing necessary shopping. We headed 13 kms upstream Mahlu nallah to another picturesque secluded high altitude village called HUDAN BHATORI. Nestled at an altitude of 3300 metres it took us an hour to reach there. There is one Forest Rest House there and we checked in. Beautiful wooden cottage facing towards lush green valley and snow capped mountains. Just a kilometer ahead is a beautiful lake at 3500 meters and alpine meadows. We handed over all veggies and meat to Norbu the caretaker. Night was super cold.
Day started early but our plan to go to the lake and alpine meadows got cancelled as it started raining continuously for next five hours. To add more adventure to it our afternoon bus also didn’t come. We had to walk down the muddy and slippery road in rain for around 2 kms when we came across this only opened shop at a place called Hundroo. The shop owner was very kind as he offered us hot tea and phone to contact our hotel in Killar to send a taxi. Taxi couldn’t come as it was risky to drive on such slippery route. After waiting for nearly two hours we were told about the last bus. We boarded it and we praised the driver and conductor who were brave enough to come and pick the passengers in such unfavourable conditions. We reached Killar and checked in Raj hotel.
We left Killar at 10:30 am in a shared taxi. Our first stop was Bagotu(base of Sach pass). Enoyed a hot cup of tea and proceeded further. We had to wait for three hours at top for the clearance of fresh snow. We finally crossed the pass with our fingers crossed and reached Bhairagarh at 7 pm. Checked in Mannat homestay followed by hot dinner and sound sleep.
Since our bus from Chamba was in the evening and we wanted to spend more time in Bhairagarh so we explored and clicked pictures of this quite and beautiful place. Hired a private taxi at 11 am and reached Chamba at 2 pm. Had lunch followed by shopping and boarded our bus at 5 pm with sweet and awesome memories of the entire trip.